Why this workshop?

Seven years ago when the Gauverband started work on the Gau Chronik, I never thought it would so difficult to get histories from most Vereine. Many Vereine had little or nothing written down; some said they had lost portions of their records. And photos were very hard to come by-- the clubs themselves did not have many photos and individuals were reluctant to part with the ones they had, even for a short while.

Because of the difficulty I saw so many Vereine having, I thought that some stories and examples from Vereine that have good records and histories would inspire us all. Keeping your Verein's history is as important to the Verein as keeping a family history is to your family. Think of your Verein as a living, ongoing endeavor whose "life" people want to know about.

What should be preserved?

First, let's look at the categories of things that should be preserved: meeting minutes, correspondence, membership lists, photo albums and scrapbooks, newsletters or other written accounts of events, and the dances your club does.

MINUTES & CORRESPONDENCE

Let's look at one of the most important--your Verein's meeting minutes. It's surprising how many Vereine have minutes that are missing. Sometimes it's because there was some bad blood in a club and a former officer kept the records and wouldn't return them. Other times it's just accidental when minutes are simply misplaced or otherwise lost.

It's a good idea to have a backup set of minutes. An official set might reside with the club's secretary or in the club's official files; the other set can be stored at a separate location, perhaps with another designated officer. Then in the event of a fire, flood, or other unpleasant event, there will likely be a surviving set.

My husband belongs to a Bavarian club that was founded in 1883. Meeting minutes for over a century have been kept handwritten in bound journals.

You get an almost eerie feeling when you pick up those volumes and see the handwritings of the many different secretaries who recorded minutes over the years. Having them in bound books keeps the minutes from getting lost, but the handwriting is sometimes difficult to read! If your minutes are typed, you can take several years worth of them and have them bound into books, like Willi Banzhaf has done with the "Gauzeitung."

STORAGE: One of the easiest storage methods of course is the 3-ring binder. But it has its downside, which is that the holes in paper get worn and pages rip. An easy way to avoid that is to keep the minutes in easy-to- use plastic sleeves. They're made of polyester, and I'll tell you later why that's important. 8 1/2" x 11" pages of either minutes or correspondence slip right in, so one sleeve holds two sheets and you can easily remove sleeves from the binder to run copies if you need to. The protectors also keep the sheets clean (no one can accidentally write on the minutes) and prevents damage from tearing or folding. The sleeves also make staples or paper clips unnecessary -- and that's important since these can tear your paper or can rust and stain the paper. By the way, rubber bands can also damage things--they sometimes become dry and brittle and will stay stuck to items. (Cotton grip tights are the alternative.)

Old minutes such as the ones I just described that are kept in bound journals can be carefully photocopied and the copies put in sleeves to keep as a back-up set of minutes. Even if someone is ambitious enough to re-type all the minutes so they're easier to read and can be kept on a computer disk, be sure to keep the old handwritten or originally typed minutes, because they serve both as a reference for accuracy and a distinctive snapshot of the past. And don't discount the special feeling of a document in its "original" state. For instance, the minutes of the Gauverband's first meeting in Milwaukee were typed on a manual typewriter, they were neat (but not beautifully formatted like you can do with today's computers), plus they were signed by the acting secretary, Rudy Unger. Thirty-some years ago, the sight of that piece of paper and the late Rudy's signature didn't mean nearly what it does today.

Let's talk for a moment about the content of meeting minutes. How well written the minutes are depends greatly on the secretary. How much detail is contained in those minutes is a combination of the secretary's abilities, his or her willingness to write in depth minutes, and the Verein's policy towards minutes--for instance, whether there's a strict format of "just the facts" or not.

Meeting minutes can be pretty dry, probably as dry as many meetings are. But what seems a bit dull to us from one month to the next may be an interesting bit of trivia to someone twenty or fifty years later. For instance, reading about whether the admission price to the biggest, fanciest dance of the year should be 25 cents or 30 cents makes us chuckle today, especially in light of Gaufest tickets closing in on $100. But it puts things into context, and that's what makes looking back such fun. This workshop is certainly not meant to be a class on writing, but if you have the occasion to write minutes, give a little thought to what future generations are going to be interested in learning about you. Include details and information that show the club as a group of people, not just a cold business venture.

NEWSLETTERS

Talking about writing, it's probably a good lead-in to talking about a Verein's newsletter if it has one. The newsletter is the place where you can really inject the personality of a Verein and its members. And keeping all the newsletter issues gives you a wonderful running history of the Verein. Charlie Volkmann is the editor of Alt Washingtonia's newsletter and I'm lucky enough to be on his mailing list. Every couple of months I read about the performances they attended, who went, and tidbits like what the hall looked like or what kind of food was served or what the weather was like. One of his reports about the Christmas party included bits of information like, "Amid the construction disruption at the club house...." and "...we had a nice tape of Reit im Winkl on the new 52" TV/VCR combo." Someone scanning through old newsletters in 10 years won't just read the generic "a good time was had by all at the Christmas party" story, they'll be reminded of who was there and think about the construction that went on or relive the excitement of getting the new TV.

Charlie also includes good natured gossip about vacationing members, who's sick and/or well again, new members, births and deaths, an upcoming events calendar, jokes and cartoons, thanks for jobs well done, and occasional reprints from articles or books that might be of interest to his readers. His writing is sprinkled liberally with people's names, both members and visitors, and that's what makes these newsletters come alive for today's readers and will make them so interesting to future generations. I've seen names of people from other Vereine and even my own name in Charlie's newsletters, and it shows what a close-knit circle of friends our common cause has spawned. I hope Charlie is keeping his newsletters filed safely and completely, because he's been at this for over 30 years and he gives his Verein something that they can cherish for a long time to come.

When I belonged to Holzhackerbuam Toledo, I wrote a newsletter for the Bavarian Sports Club and also edited a newsletter of articles about the seven German and Swiss societies in Toledo that belong to an umbrella organization called the G.A.F. My uncle enjoyed the newsletters so much that he bound them into a book for me. I follow Charlie's philosophy and included lots of names and bits of information in the articles. I've been told more than once the newsletter was a favorite addition to home libraries (or more accurately the bathroom) because the articles required just about that much time to read. All in all, not a bad compliment! The G.A.F.'s newsletter gave quite a few clubs and the G.A.F.'s historian the opportunity to write histories of the individual clubs and the umbrella society, thus giving newcomers the chance to learn something. People in all the clubs enjoyed these newsletters and many besides my uncle have kept every issue, recognizing that their value as a useful and entertaining reference.

If your club doesn't already have a newsletter, consider starting one. It gives you the opportunity to communicate, but it also gives you a chance to document your history in a new way. Someone who's not too active in the Verein might even see what they're missing and join in. If someone wants to reminisce, he or she can contribute to the newsletter, either by writing an article or being interviewed by someone who wants to document those memories. The current movers and shakers in a Verein sometimes overlook contributions made by those they didn't know personally; a history article in a newsletter provides a gentle reminder as well as documentation.

The newsletter can be published frequently or it can be a yearly event-- perhaps a letter prepared for the club's Stiftungsfest with a review of the year's events. Whether you already have a newsletter or are just starting out, be sure to keep every issue safely stored so they can be shared with others. The same page protectors used for the minutes can be used for the newsletters, then kept in 3-ring binders.

WRITERS TAKE HEED: Just a word of warning about writing--I've heard stories from writers and editors in several Vereine about criticism of club newsletters, of articles submitted to a newsletter or to the "Gauzeitung," and even of histories submitted to the Gau's Chronik. Sometimes you have to be thick skinned; there's always going to be someone who runs down what you do. But try to evaluate what was said to see if you can learn something from it. Occasionally even the cruelest remarks have redeeming value. If it's just mean spirited words meant to hurt you, try your best to ignore them and concentrate on the compliments you get. I'm the first to admit that's much easier said than done, but don't quit just because some curmudgeon wants to show off.

SCRAPBOOKS AND PHOTO ALBUMS

Since I've shown that a newsletter can be a window into a club's life, let's talk about extending the written word to photographs, news clippings, and other memorabilia that a Verein might have. Combining all these things into a chronological scrapbook gives a Verein an invaluable source of history. You need a book or album to keep the information in (a binder is again a good choice), and you need a way to protect the items (again, the sheet protectors are a terrific way). This is the easy part of course, gathering old information is likely to be the hard part.

The worst thing you can use is magnetic photo albums. We've all seen the albums of 100 pages for a bargain $3.99. Don't waste your money though. Anything you put in these albums suffers a slow and painful death. The glue on the pages can do several awful things. First, it can fail after a few years and allow the items to fall out. If that happens, be happy, because you can now easily transfer these things to better albums. The glue can yellow over time and discolor the photos or newspaper clippings stuck to the pages. This will permanently stain and alter their appearance. That's bad enough, but the glue can also stick so well that the item can't be removed from the page without damaging it.

If a photo is stuck to a page, you might wiggle it off by working from the four corners towards the center, but that often leaves the photo curled or the paper torn off the back. Or you can remove it slowly and gently with a piece of dental floss. Work the floss between the photo and the page and slowly sort of "saw" it away from the page. Thin paper like a newspaper article, however, won't come off the page without damage. Your only alternative may be to make a copy of the page and then save the copy in a higher quality album.

I'll discuss materials and products more thoroughly in a few minutes. Let me first give some general advice about the content of the scrapbooks. It seems so obvious, but it's so often overlooked: You need to identify your the photos or articles--use the "who, what, where, when, why" quiz as an easy guide. Don't forget the year and people's last names. If you're working with current information, that's very easy to forget.

DATING: When I was doing the history book for Holzhackerbuam Toledo, someone gave me newspaper articles going back 50 years, which I made copies of because he didn't want to part with them. Many of the articles weren't dated, so we had to approximate dates based on the context of the article or by looking at photos. So be sure to write the date on the clipping! Old program books with photos were another source of photos and other historical information like which clubs attended the Fahnenweihe. Don't forget to keep program books and even flyers and program/price sheets you leave on tables for guests. Think about how interesting this might be to someone twenty years from now.

IDENTIFYING PEOPLE: The club also acquired old group photos and the people needed to be identified. After getting nearly all the names by asking long time members for help, I wanted a fool proof way to connect the names with the right faces. Since many pictures did not have people standing in neat, straight lines, writing "front row, second row, third row left to right..." wasn't an option. So I put a piece of tracing paper over the photo, outlined the figures, put a number on every "face" and then put a name against every number. The outline drawing with the names shown underneath is mounted across from the photo. Although it takes more time, the results look great, it's the most accurate way to identify people who are jumbled, and it's fun to look at.

CARE OF PHOTOS: Treat your photos with respect, being careful not to touch the surface. Never write on the back of a photograph because the ink may bleed through to the front eventually and ruin the photo. If you need to identify the photo until it can be put into an album, use a #2 pencil to write lightly on the back or write on a Post-it note and put it on the back of the photo. When you do arrange the photos on album pages, use acid-free, heavy stock paper and acid-free adhesive to affix the photos to the paper. Then slip them into the sleeves to protect them from people's fingers. Oils and dirt from your hands are very bad for paper and photos, so the less you handle things, the better. Another plus for the protector sleeves.

Photo protectors come in many different configurations; some hold individual photos in various sizes. This is especially handy if you want to see the back of, for instance, a postcard that has a greeting from someone.

Cleaning photos or other paper products is tricky business. Any irreplaceable item should be treated professionally. There are products available to help with easier (less valuable) jobs, available from University Products (see "Product Sources" section). For document cleaning, use pads that contain soft, grit-free powder that absorbs and cleans surface dirt from paper. A no-water spray that cleans photos and slides is also available for some kinds of photos/slides. Lint free photowipes are good for removing light dirt and fingerprints from photos. Don't try to remove stains from any paper product, but do brush off dust and dirt gently with a soft brush. If you're going to clean items, do so very carefully (and practice on something you can replace first!).

If your papers are rolled or folded, how do you straighten them safely? First, do not force the paper flat or you'll cause the fibers in the paper to break, thus weakening the paper. Over several days, let the paper relax and absorb humidity from the air. Flatten the papers slowly. Towards the end of the flattening process, add weights cautiously (especially if the paper is frail). (Iowa Conservation and Preservation Consortium website)

STORING NEGATIVES: Negatives from the 1960s to the present have a polyester base and can be organized in clear polyethylene or polypropylene sleeves. Negatives from the 1920s to the 1960s generally have an acetate base and should be stored in envelopes made from non-buffered paper so the film can off-gas the acetic acid in its base. Keep them in an acid-free board box in a cool dark place. A fire-proof, heat-proof safe deposit box will keep your negatives safe from fire. (Iowa Conservation)

How should photos and documents be preserved safely?

BINDERS AND ALBUMS: One of the easiest and least expensive ways is in a 3- ring binder. The two most convenient sizes are the ones to fit standard 8 1/2 x 11" pages or the ones to fit 12" x 12" pages. If you use three ring binders, try to use the D-ring type binder because it's easier on the pages. Make sure the rings close completely so pages can't sneak out and that the rings don't pop open too easily. Some binders actually have a locking device, making it a two-step process to get the rings open.

The safest binders are fabric or paper covered. Many vinyl albums are made of PVC or polyvinyl chloride. This kind of vinyl emits hydrochloric acid which in turn damages the contents. If you've ever put a piece of paper against a piece of vinyl and left it for a few days, you'll have to peel the paper off the vinyl because the ink breaks down and sticks to the vinyl. Some vinyl also gets an oily feel after a few years; avoid binders made of PVC.

The binders that fit 12" x 12" pages are more expensive, as are the protector sleeves and paper you buy for them, but you can fit more on a page. Instead of ring binders, there are also post binders, which have the advantage of being expandable by adding more posts.

ADHESIVES: Next you need to affix your photos or clippings to a page. Always use acid free adhesive, such as PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue sticks. Double-sided self-adhesive tape or tape squares (called photo splits) that are labeled acid-free are also available. Acid-free photo mount corners allow you to easily remove photos or postcards from paper. Tape or glue that is not "acid free" may eventually yellow, loose its adhesive value, or the adhesive can "ooze" and cause your pages to stick together. The gooey adhesive syndrome happens when unstable adhesives come in contact with PVC- -and you know already that you shouldn't use PVC!

What if you have a larger, thicker item or a very fragile item that you can't just stick on a page? You can encase it in clear polyester zipper bags or envelope-style pockets which come in many sizes. Then attach the bag to the pages with double-sided tape. This is a way you can preserve a program book or pamphlet, for instance. But if you want to be able to look through, say, a program book, you can use no-punch plastic magazine holders. You open up the book, slip it through the holder opening, and then the plastic holder can be secured in a binder.

LAMINATING: Should you laminate? Probably not. It's often a damaging process and is not reversible. The laminating materials can actually accelerate the chemical aging process. If you want to protect something, it's better to "encapsulate" the item using a sealable bag. Encapsulation units come in sizes from 6" x 9" to 38" x 50" (see the University Products catalog). You put the item inside the clear polyester sleeve, then seal the sleeve shut by removing a paper strip to expose adhesive. To remove the object, simply cut open the sleeve. Some units have no adhesive, only a flap that folds over. Other bags seal shut something like a zip-lock sandwich bag.

BOOK STORAGE: When you store the books on a shelf, store them upright between like-sized books; don't let books lean over. Wedge them snugly; otherwise the pages inside will sag and curl or the covers might warp and distort. If there are many heavy items in the book, it's better to store it flat.

Where should you store these precious books? The best location is an air- conditioned room with north or east windows and out of direct sunlight. The worst places are basements, attics, or garages because the extremes in temperature and humidity can affect the paper. Water damage from flooding is disastrous. And once mold forms on paper, you're almost assured of irreparable damage if cleanup is not done properly, and the mold spreads quickly to items around it.

ACID-FREE PAPER: This next discussion of acid free products refers not just to albums but also to framing photographs. Use only acid free paper; paper with too much acid deteriorates over time and becomes yellow and brittle. Many papers today are labeled "acid free," which means they have a pH of 7.0 or higher. Most good quality paper you buy today will most likely be acid-free. I've tested a number of copier and printer papers, and they've been safe even though they weren't labeled "acid free." You can test the acid content with a pH testing pen. It's very easy to use--simply make a short line on a piece of paper and if it "disappears" or turns yellow, the paper is acidic. If the line turns purple, the paper is non- acidic and therefore safe to use.

BUFFERED PAPER: If you have a document that's on acidic paper, you can counteract it by mounting it on or storing with buffered paper. The buffered paper, which is alkaline, absorbs and neutralizes the acids. Over time, the buffered paper may need to be changed because it will have absorbed more acid that it can hold. (Acidic paper can also be neutralized through a chemical treatment, but that's more technical than we'll get in this workshop.) The polyester sleeves are good for preventing acid migration which occurs when acidic paper comes in contact with non-acidic papers and contaminates them.

If paper is marked "100% cotton rag" it's safe. Artists pads usually use this kind of paper. Rag board or rag papers are made with non-wood products, such as cotton, and are nearly always safe.

PAGE PROTECTORS: Page protectors should be made either of polyester or polyethylene (which are the common names for plastic polyethylene terephthalate) or polypropylene. Both are chemically stable plastics. Some common trade names are Mylar and Melinex. NEVER EVER use anything labeled "PVC" or polyvinyl chloride which is a chemically unstable plastic that will eventually cause damage to your valuable items. If plastics are marked "PVC-free," they're safe to use.

PENS AND INKS: Finally, when you add captions on the paper, try to capture the facts of the event (who, what, where, when, why), but also add some narrative if possible. It's important again to use good quality materials--use pens that have ink identified as pigment ink, acid-free, and archival quality. The ink should be lightfast, fade proof, non-bleeding, and waterproof. They come in many different colors and pen tips.

ENCOURAGEMENT: Starting the history book is probably one of the hardest things to do. Everyone agrees it's a great cause, they have good intentions to give the historian some pictures or other items, but then the enthusiasm fizzles. If you're the historian, don't get discouraged. Just put together whatever you can, then pass the book around. It doesn't have to be fancy, just interesting, and people love pictures (especially of themselves). When people see the books, it motivates them and pretty soon you'll have more to put in the book. That process happens nearly every time you show the history book.

How to get duplicates of photos

A history book comes alive with photos. But what if people aren't willing to part with the photos that would be perfect for your Verein's history book? Today's technology makes reprints so simple, regardless of whether the negative exists. Many stores make reprints or enlargements of photos immediately, so you don't have to risk leaving the original. Or they have machines you can experiment with yourself. Costs vary by store and size of photo. You can also scan the photo into a computer, you might end up with a copy that's even better than the original. Computer scanning gives you great flexibility, too, for re-sizing the photo, changing colors, enhancing the image, fixing flaws, or enlarging only part of a photo.

Color copies, available at many copy shops, is a quick and inexpensive way to get a good copy of either color or black-and-white photos. You can make them the same size or resize them. Color copying is a great way of getting 3-5 photos on one page or even creating a collage of pictures that you then copy. Keep in mind that the picture is on thinner paper and the life of that paper is not as long as a photo would be. Also, be careful that the images do not touch each other because sometimes the ink is sticky. Per sheet price is about $1-$3, probably cheaper and easier than reprints, and a good alternative if money is tight.

Today when so many of us get two prints made of every picture we take, we should take the opportunity to give the club's historian a photo or two for the history book. Attach a note with the "who, what, where, when, why" information. Or you might even try your hand at putting together a page for the book.

Member Lists

Keep a list of members that includes their birthdate, membership date, and date of death (or when they leave the Verein). The century-old club my husband belongs began a tradition of having a small photo of each member added to a 4' x 4' frame with a mat with pre-cut holes. Today it's interesting to see those hundreds of people, some of whom are the great grandparents of today's members! An alternative to this is to start a members album--the day a member joins, take a picture and add it to the album. When a member dies, keep the prayer card.

Framing

Consult a professional framer for irreplaceable items. A good book on framing is also valuable. Use only acid-free products, preferably buffered paper in case the item you're framing is acidic. Keep your framed item out of direct sunlight to avoid fading and even humidity buildup (the "greenhouse" effect). Better yet, frame a copy of the item and keep the original safely away from light, temperature extremes, and those who might want to steal the original. When framing photographs, use glass or Plexiglas that filters ultraviolet light because UV light causes fading and deterioration. Framed items are best matted because the mat keeps the item from touching the glass. You don't want humidity trapped between the glass and the photo.

Preserving Dances

Even though our Vereine all try to uphold dancing, an often overlooked area of preservation is dance preservation. Videotaping makes this so much easier today than when people had to describe the dance in words and still photos. Many Vereine also have choreographed their own dances, and these need to be preserved as well.

If it is a couple's figure dance or Volkstanz, videotape only one couple so you can have a closer view of what's going on. Consider the angle--you may want to tape the same steps from more than one angle. After you have the individual couple only, show a whole group dancing. You can also show some of the fine points of the dance in shorter segments, emphasizing whatever needs special treatment such as hand and feet positions, posture, etc., possibly with a narrative while the dance is being done.

If you're videotaping a Plattler, have two men stand side by side, with one facing the camera, the other with his back to the camera. The late Don Klingseisen often endorsed this method because you can see exactly what is happening for every beat of the music. The dance can be done once through slowly (no music) to show the hits clearly; then at normal tempo with music. Add the rest of the fellows and the ladies to show the entire dance, along with narration of anything of particular interest.

A Trachtentanz like the "Kronentanz" is trickier. Again, tape the dance in its entirety (no zoom shots), then break it down in to shorter segments to emphasize parts, such as when the couples break into smaller circles. If possible, have a narrative on the tape that describes what's going on.

For any dance, you can also include a history of the dance--where and when your Verein learned the dance, the name of the music, anything you might have changed from the dance as originally learned--these items are all important parts of documenting dances. These tapes will make excellent learning tools for others, both inside and outside your Verein.

Store all tapes (video and cassette) in stable temperature and humidity; preferably in archival containers to protect them from dust and dirt.

Using Computers for Storage

I put forth the question on the "Gaunet" of what other Vereine and individuals were doing with their history books. It led to a rather lively discussion of computer media. I'll summarize some of the highlights here.

Product Sources

Ten years ago this workshop would have been much more difficult to research. Today there is an abundance of information available on archival quality products and the products themselves are so readily available. Many individually owned craft, hobby, and photo stores, as well as chains like Michael's or Franks, carry acid-free papers, pens, albums, pH testing pens, and binders. Some even provide classes in scrapbooking where you can learn more and get ideas, although most are geared more towards family albums. Depending on what area of the country you life in, scrapbooking is a major hobby, and specialty stores, scrapbooking clubs, and consultants abound that carry products and give classes.

MAIL ORDER: These products and many others are also available through mail order catalogs such as those from Century Plastics and University Products, which I've included in your handouts. You'll find the mail order catalogs to be competitively priced with stores. Century Plastics has a wide line of pens; photo pages, with and without heavy weight acid-free paper in several colors; and binders at good prices. They often have sales that make the products even more attractive. They carry all the basics you'll need.

University Products ("Archival Quality Materials" catalog) sells to universities and museums as well as retail customers. They have all the ba sics I've referred to but also have conservation and storage items most of us probably never even thought about, so the catalog itself is eye-opening. Among their line are acid free boxes of varying sizes including those for storing large items such as clothing (acid-free containers and acid-free tissue paper are a must for long term storage of garments). The section on photo products, matboards, and frames is exceptional. They carry storage boxes for CDs, cassettes, videotapes, and even long-playing records and also storage for such items as full size newspapers, comic books, artwork, even insects, rocks, and stamps. If you need long term file storage, the line of acid-free file folders and boxes is good. In other words, if you want to store it, clean it, or restore it, University Products has everything you need! The website also has a list of conservation professionals across the country. Their 200-page catalog has much information about conservation, as well as all the products to do it. University Products has an informative website too if you have access to the Internet.

MAGAZINES: Numerous magazines cater to the scrapbooking/ photojournaling hobby that is progressing across the country. Two of them that I used to glean some valuable information from were "Memory Makers" and "Creating Keepsakes." The addresses for them is in the "Sources" section, or you can get these magazines (and others) at a newsstand. They're motivating whether you're doing a personal family album or your club's history.

Sources of information

WEBSITES: If you're surfing the web, do a search for "archive" "scrapbooking" "archival" and take a look at some of the information there. The Iowa Conservation and Preservation Consortium had a great deal of information and hints, and University Products has a link to the Consortium's information.

MAIL ORDER

University Products, Inc.

P.O. Box 101

Holyoke, MA 01041-0101

1-800-628-1912

Fax: 1-800-532-9281

e-mail for "Archival Quality Materials" catalog: aqm@universityproducts.com

Website: http://www.archivalcompany.com

Everything you'll need for longterm storage of paper, textiles, etc.;

photo albums and pages; pens; adhesives; etc.

20th Century Plastics

205 South Puente Street

Brea, California 92821

1-800-767-0777

Photo pages and paper, albums, binders, pens, adhesives.

Exposures

1 Memory Lane

P.O. Box 3615

Oshkosh, WI 54903-3615

1-800-572-5750

For frames, albums, decorative storage boxes, photopages, photo-related

decorator items. Beautiful 56-page catalog, lots of display ideas.

BOOK

An Ounce of Preservation: A Guide to the Care of Papers and Photographs

by Craig Tuttle (BA & MA in History, Certificate in Archival Management;

archival consultant)

Available from Rainbow Books, Inc. ($12.95)

PO Box 430

Highland City, FL 33846-0430

Phone/Fax 813-648-4420

e-mail NAIP@aol.com

from the website review: "Included is a discussion of the causes of paper and photograph deterioration and suggestions for the lay person to recognize the damage caused by environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity, fungi, insects and rodents, light exposure, pollutants, water damage, framing, lamination, fasteners and adhesives, fire and theft. It also includes information on the care and handling of paper-based items and photographic materials and techniques for the repair and cleaning of mildly damaged items. In addition, reference guides to damage/ cause, list of preservation supplies, sources."

MAGAZINES

Creating Keepsakes

P.O. Box 2119

Orem, UT 84-59-2119

Phone 801-224-8235; Fax 801-225-2878

CreatingK@aol.com

$19.95/ year for six issues (abundant advertising)

Memory Makers

475 W. 115th Ave. Unit 6

Denver, CO 80234

1-800-366-3465 or (303) 452-0048

michele@memorymakers.com (e-mail)

http://www.memorymakers.com

$24.95 / year for four issues (very little advertising)

Both these magazines list product manufacturers, have excellent advice columns and how-to articles, and just generally get the creative juices flowing!

The information in this paper may be passed along to others in your Vereine. Please be sure to reference the author and the source of the material.